In any case, the main reported problems are loss of power and a clear lag to obtain the desired torque. But also carbon that went to the turbo and damaged it resulting in 2000€ for a new one. First example is a motor with 145.000km
399 posts · Joined 2017. #5 · Apr 18, 2022. OGD888 said: The only real issue I have is the orange peel paint, and the "factory thin paint", The dealer is reluctant to address the paint issue, and the orange peel issue is Mazda wide, upon inspection of all new cars on the dealer's lot. So it is not "unique" to my M3 Turbo, but to all new Mazda.
There’s not much in the way of oomph until the turbo kicks in at a relatively high 2,200rpm, and under high throttle loads, torque steer becomes an issue; a problem that’s exacerbated by the
If you can find a volunteer, have them sit in the car while you take a garden hose to it. If the leak is a bad one, they might be able to spot it. Other times, though, the car needs to be moving for the water to be forced or even sucked in. You should also check the level of coolant in your radiator or overflow bottle.
7777, i dont think it matters on the belt placement, you can install it either way. The key is after you get the tension set just make sure the distributor is pointing the way i said, if it is off alignment on the #1 electrode in the dist cap then you run into having to make extreme adjustments to compensate for it being a tooth off and most of the time you cannot get enough out of turning it.
I own a Mazda 6 2008 (58 plate) 2.0tdi, in had an engine run-away which happened because of high diesel contamination in the engines sump, the diesel to oil ratio is 62%. I understand oil levels rise … read more
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mazda 6 2.2 diesel engine problems
